They say the nightlife of Athens rivals with that of New York, London and Paris and maybe surpass those cities. But one thing is for certain: you won't find more restaurants, bars, and clubs in a smaller area than you will in Athens with the majority of the nightlife being in central areas like Psiri, Plaka, and Thission. And if you want to get a real taste of Greece, you have to look for a place with good traditional food and rembetika music.
Rembetika music is the music of the Greek underground. It originated in the hashish dens of Pireaus and Thessaloniki with the forced immigration of 2 million Greek refugees from Minor Asia. And then it evolved into Greek popular music.
Many places close in Athens when the weather gets warm but Stoa Athanaton in the Central Market of Athens is one of the best places to hear authentic rembetika. Also the Platia Iroon Taverna in Psiri has 3 guys who just hang out and jam at night. In the daytime go to Kapni Karea Cafe which is between Metropolis and Ermou Streets on a little alley near the small church of Kapni Karea. Here you will find good music in the afternoon.
One gem of a rembetika club that few people know about is in the neighborhood of Kypseli, right off Fokionos Negri, a pedestrian avenue that starts from Patission Street. The name of the club is Karabani and features Giannis Lempesis and his excellent group. Lempesis is an old style rembetika singer and bouzouki player, having a dozen or so music albums. He used to play with famous old stars like Poli Panou and Ioanna Georgakopoulou. The club is open on Fridays and Saturdays nights with the music beginning around 11pm. It’s easy to find the club if you walk up Fokionos Negri from Patission, just after the old market on the right.
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